Darjeeling first flush
A PERFECT BALANCE
If one were to try and design the perfect location for a tea estate, even years of effort wouldn’t be enough to identify all the diverse factors that make the Indian region of Darjeeling so uniquely suited to the task. The altitude, the rainfall, the shade from the surrounding mountain peaks – these are just a few of the attributes that make this region a paradise for Camellia sinensis, the plant from which Darjeeling tea is made.
The first harvest, often referred to as "the first flush", has become world-famous thanks to the exquisite tea it produces. This harvest takes place between March and May each year and is one of the absolute highlights for tea lovers around the globe.
Reflecting on his first visit to Darjeeling, Gihan Mauris, CEO of The Tea Centre of Stockholm, paints a magical picture of the delicate first shoots that make up the first flush.
“The leaves stretch as far as the eye can see and are so incredibly green,” he says, “that the entire mountainside looks like a sea of neon when the sun hits them.”
A FLAVOURFUL FUSION
From this sea of neon is produced one of the world’s most sought-after beverages. A black tea which, despite the name, is a pale yellow in the cup and conceals a myriad of flavours. A Darjeeling first flush is heavily influenced by its unique surroundings and changes in character according to the terroir – the nearby natural environment – of the specific tea plant from which the leaves are harvested.
“Before my first trip to Darjeeling,” Gihan continues, “my father told me to start by tasting the local water and to pay attention to what grows around the tea gardens.”
The soil, water, flowers, and plants surrounding the tea bush all influence the character of the tea that is ultimately produced from its leaves. This is especially true of the first harvest, as the plant – after resting since the final pluck of the previous year – bursts forth with renewed energy, absorbing the many aromas that surround it. Notes of young grass, floral and fruity tones, and other delightful spring flavours make themselves known.
Later harvests from the same plant in the same location will produce a tea with a very different character, notably much darker in the cup.
A LONG-STANDING TRADITION
Because the taste and character of a first flush tea is so sensitive to environmental factors, the estates label their teas with more than just the estate name. A serial number reveals several other relevant details such as the exact day the leaves were picked, how long each processing step took, the plant’s exact location on the estate, and much more.
An extraordinary batch of Darjeeling tea may, for example, originate from a specific part of a slope where the angle is just right for the plant to receive an ideal amount of water. Such a lot becomes highly sought-after during the frenzied trade period following the harvest – a time The Tea Centre of Stockholm participates in annually.
“When Darjeeling first flush becomes available around March,” Gihan explains, “the tea trade turns into a hectic scene straight out of Wall Street.”
Decisions must be made quickly, as the immense popularity of this tea ensures that it will not remain on the market for long. For three decades, The Tea Centre of Stockholm has stood ready at the stroke of midnight to secure high-quality Darjeeling first flush for its customers – always so-called “single estate” tea, meaning it is not blended and comes from a single batch to preserve its unique character and ensure full traceability.
After tasting around 200 lots of first flush, one to three are selected to be imported to the shop in Stockholm.
A WELL-WORTH DOSE OF PATIENCE
Because of its relatively limited supply, Darjeeling first flush is not sold like other teas. Tea lovers sign up in advance for a specific quantity and have two weeks to purchase their share when the tea arrives, before it is made available to the general public. Timing is key, as tea from these delicate first flush leaves is at its best when consumed shortly after harvest.
When customers come to collect their portion of this precious crop, they are offered the chance to register again for next year’s first flush – something most do without hesitation. At that moment, no one knows what character the next spring’s Darjeeling first flush will take on, but the tea is so special that people are happy to place their trust in The Tea Centre of Stockholm to once again select something well worth the wait.
“I never bring in anything I don’t personally believe to be of the highest quality,” Gihan concludes, “and Darjeeling first flush is truly a unique tea – one that makes me say ‘wow’ every year and always takes me back to my first visit to those beautiful mountains.”
“A cup of Darjeeling first flush is a sure sign that a beautiful summer is on its way.”